Bryant Led Flash Error Code Chart

Bryant Model 583ANW048090AAAF

This chart was hard to find so I posted it here. It was not in the product literature that I found.
I was getting 1 flash then a pause then 8 flashes Technical support suggested replacing the board.

1 flash - The control has modified the fan on delay to 0 and off delay to 3 minutes

due to sensing LS trip within 10 minutes of a call

2 flashes - a) LS is open due to high temperature (fan isn't working scenario)

b) The unit will not start a trial for ignition until the switch closes back

3 flashes - a) Flame sensed out of sequence.

b) The unit is operable, however will display this fault code until power

reset or another code

4 flashes - a) LS opened 4 consecutive times during a call for heating

b) The fault code is reset on the next W call

5 flashes - a) Ignition lockout. The control tried unsuccessfully to ignite for 15 minutes

b) The unit will not operate. Requires power reset

6 flashes - a) The combustion motor is not sensed running OR CS open

b) The unit will not operate. Requires power reset

7 flashes - a) RS tripped

b) The unit will not operate. Requires power reset

8 flashes - a) Internal control fault (software self check)

Watt & Power Factor Meters

Meters for Watts and Power Factor.

I have been testing a few meters for taking watt and power factor readings. One reason I want good watt readings is to double check my TrueFlow grid CFM readings when commissioning a Bosch heat pump. By having an accurate wattage I can determine the CFM from the blower chart.


I want the power factor reading to check on motor efficiency under load.


Redfish/ Supco has the DVM 550 Wireless BlueTooth Power Clamp Meter. I haven’t tried it


Testo has the 770-3. That meter seems to be discontinued. I have one but the watt readings were unusable. They jumped around from 132 to 550 watts on the blower I tested.  I don’t know if it was a defect in the meter I have or if this problem was widespread.


Here are two choices I have done well with so far:


I got the PCE-PCM 1 meter for $185 plus $15 shipping. It shipped in one day straight from Germany. I have been testing it and I like it a lot The price is amazing especially considering that it is single phase / three phase meter. The other meters I mentioned are only single phase. Note that it is a bit larger than the typical HVAC multimeter. Also be aware that it only has amp, voltage and kva related readings… no capacitance, ohms etc so it can’t take the place of a regular multimeter.


https://www.pce-instruments.com/us/measuring-instruments/test-meters/current-clamp-pce-instruments-current-clamp-pce-pcm-1-det_2132343.htm?_list=kat&_listpos=14


And here is the dark horse that has really surprised me:a $20 dollar component  I got on Amazon, the CrocSee CRS-022B LCD Display.

You have to add your own alligator clips and extend the wiring on the snap around amp clamp but that should be easy for any AC tech.

The readings have been very close to the German  PCE-PCM 1 meter so at this point I am very comfortable trusting the data the CRS-022B gives me., though I plan to use them both.


Remember with most HVAC motors you won’t get the correct wattage just by multiplying volts and amps unless it happens to have a power factor of 1.

volt x amps x power factor = watts.




https://www.amazon.com/CrocSee-CRS-022B-Frequency-Multimeter-Transformer/dp/B07K3S4K9L/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=6QRJ54Y79BFX&keywords=crocsee&qid=1637048962&qsid=134-5066684-4237815&sprefix=crocsee%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-3&sres=B07K3S4K9L%2CB08887TZH7%2CB08MJ8MXYQ%2CB0895PV8S2%2CB088ZQ5CPZ%2CB074TZZ6KS%2CB089GLSG2B%2CB086YT49H7%2CB086WTJ1VK%2CB091YYQYV5%2CB0722Z4PX5%2CB088ZXPDHY%2CB08GLJLFQS%2CB08HYXVWBF

Trane WHL02558 blower wheel matchup

We recently had to replace a blower wheel on a Trane package hvac. The hub had come loose from the perimeter. The part was not quickly available from Trane so we had to do some digging to come up with a locally available match.
The original part number as listed in the manual is WHL02558 . ( The tag on the housing lists it as D303766P46 )

 The new superseding Trane part number is WHL02167 or WHL-2167 .

Diameter 10.62 width 10.68 CCW 1/2” bore concave disc

We found a wheel with matching specifications at Johnstone Supply . That part number is W89-170 or W89170 ( Also known by part number 01331606 ). This was a perfect fit so we were able to get the customer’s ac up and running the same day.

Remember that Humidity Affects Temperature Split

Here is my pull quote from an article posted at HVACRschool.com

Keep in mind, when you are doing a new system start-up, high humidity will cause your air temperature split to be on the low side.

Evaporator Air Temperature Split (Delta T)

The evaporator air temperature split (Delta T) is a nice calculation because it gives you a good look at system performance and airflow. The air temperature split during typical conditions will be between 16 and 22 degrees difference from the return to the supply. Keep in mind, when you are doing a new system start-up, high humidity will cause your air temperature split to be on the low side. Refer to the air temperature split and comfort considerations sheets for further information.

https://hvacrschool.com/the-5-pillars-of-residential-ac-refrigerant-circuit-diagnosis/

Checking the Integrity of Low voltage Safety Circuits

Sometimes getting the full expected voltage reading on a circuit can be misinterpreted. Don’t assume it means the connections in the path are OK. Use the methods here to test for acceptable impedance in the circuit.

Below is a great post from HVAC-talk.com

https://hvac-talk.com/vbb/threads/1646711-having-an-issue-with-combination-Honeywell-Smart-valve-amp-ignitor-assembly-for-furnace

The only 100% reliable method for checking safeties (and board outputs) is to use a low impedance meter (or low impedance setting on the meter) or use an actual load. Even a 24 volt test light works great.

With a typical digital high impedance meter, you can read full voltage when you have a high resistance contact or connection.

Take a relay or contactor and connect it to the chain of safeties. If it pulls in, you have a low impedance path that shows you that you can eliminate any worries about the switches in that chain.

Credit to user timebuilder

AOP Committee/Professional Member

(End of post)

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This is a composite image and not an actual dial. It shows a variety of functions found on multiple Fluke digital multimeter dials. No single model contains all these functions. On many models, some function icons are displayed in yellow. This indicates the digital multimeter’s yellow function button must be pressed to select those measurements.

  1. ON/OFF switch

  2. AUTO-V/LoZ: prevents readings due to ghost voltage; found on the Fluke 114

  3. AC voltage/LoZ: uses low-input impedance

  4. AC voltage with low-pass filter

  5. VCHEKTM: permits simultaneous testing for voltage or continuity; found on the Fluke 113

  6. AC voltage

  7. AC millivolts

  8. DC voltage

  9. DC millivolts

  10. Temperature

  11. Continuity: when combined with sound button

  12. Resistance

  13. Capacitance

  14. Diode test

  15. AC, DC amps and milliamps

  16. AC, DC microamps

Digital multimeter buttons

Troubleshooting mysterious heater limit switch error codes

Sometimes a furnace will give an error code suggesting that a high limit has opened, yet after checking airflow, temperatures and limit switches no issue can be found. This can be particularly mysterious when the error is intermittent.

At this point it is helpful to remember that bad solder joints on the circuit board can lead to this symptom.

Check the back of the circuit board carefully for cracked joints. The picture above shows a solder joint that would cause the limit failure code during overnight operation but would work perfectly during the day.

We have seen this issue on a few York DJ048 light commercial package units as well as other brand blower control boards.

How did water get inside the refrigerant lineset pipes?

We recently found a split system AC that had several ounces of water in the copper refrigerant lines. Suspecting that a contaminated tank of refrigerant had been used by a previous tech would be a reasonable theory but after inspecting the system we realized that the evaporator coil had a large leak on the very bottom row. The hole was immersed in the condensate water filling the evaporator pan so when the charge was lost, the hole allowed water to siphon into the system.

Ecobee thermostat won’t turn on heat pump

If you have an Ecobee thermostat calling for heat, connected to a heat pump and the flame icon is white instead of orange , check the heat pump settings on the thermostat. The factory default is to prevent the compressor from running when the outdoor temperature is 35 degrees Fahrenheit or below. Most newer heat pumps, especially inverter driven units, will run safely at ambient temperatures lower than 35°. Check the equipment specifications and adjust accordingly. You can also disable the minimum temperature if the heat pump handles that feature.

Clean Copper P trap with Steam

Sometimes the condensate P trap can get quite clogged with mud or debris and you don’t have a water spigot available to flush it with a hose. I have had great success with gently heating the P trap with a standard propane torch to produce steam in the pipe and thus clear the line.

ECE5C0A2-3E40-4E2C-BD5A-AC15308B6291_1_201_a.jpeg

Coleman Furnace Won't Stay Lit

If you ever run across a Coleman gas furnace that short cycles and shuts off soon after ignition, check for the proper exhaust stack before replacing the circuit board or other ignition components. Sometimes when the furnace was replaced the installing HVAC contractor may have neglected to upgrade the exhaust stack on top of the roof as well. When this happens the furnace will not have the proper combustion air and will run poorly or not at all. The image shows what the upgraded furnace stack should look like.

Factory miswired Copeland compressor plug module

This was a tricky issue to diagnose. The purpose of a factory molded plug is to ensure that the wires cannot be connected to the wrong terminal, but what happens when the factory miswires the plug?

The brand new package AC would not cool because the compressor would not startup. Adding a hard start kit did not help. The hard start relay chattered and the start capacitor got hot very quickly.

After extensive troubleshooting I found the culprit, something you would not normally expect to look for: The black and red wires on the molded compressor plug were reversed. This meant that the start winding was never receiving the capacitance it needed. After fixing the issue the AC ran normally.

IMG_4619.jpeg

Updating iManifold firmware after version 2.0 app software update.

March 7 2019. The option to update the firmware no longer appears in the IOS app 2.0 for iManifold. The info currently posted at their website about doing the firmware update is out of date.

I called technical support and they said to download the alternate app called iManifoldCR. Apparently this is a custom version for Clearesult tuneup programs. It looks like the old version of the software which is useful if you don’t like the current 2.0 software.

https://www.clearesult.com/utility-solutions/residential-hvac/

The update firmware option is still there in the iManifoldCR app. They said the function will be returned to the regular app in the future.

Try to do the firmware upgrade when you don’t need the phone or tablet. It can take a long time. I suggest disabling the lock screen so the device doesn’t go to sleep. It seems to speed up the process.

Hope this helps someone. I lost about 90 minutes trying to resolve the missing firmware update button